Caught by the dark side of the Mugaritz

High dining has the potential to knock your socks off. Unknown flavours and daring combinations can make you lose your grip and introduce you to a parallel universe where you are the match, and the dishes are fire. When you’re happy, you

Review- Legrand-Latour

Did you know that Champagne terroir is bursting with fossil seashells? In the so-called eocene period, most of the region was part of a tropical (!) ocean that covered the north-east of France. Although this was 56 to 33.9 million years ago,

Review- Nowack

A new rockstar has entered the champagne stage and his name is Flavien Nowack. Everywhere I went, people mentioned his name: Aline of Au Bon Manger, David Léclapart, his partner in crime Ale Muchada, Niek the sommelier of the Klepel, and the

Mokonuts in Paris is worth a 2-hour detour

Paris is not exactly Champagne territory. But hear me out. When you go to Rue Saint Bernard, you’ll find Mokonuts: a restaurant by Omar and Moko, who could easily be the twin sister of Au Bon Manger’s Aline Serva.

Review- Aurélien Lurquin

Great champagne is made in the vineyard, not in the cellar. It’s something the greatest of great natural champagne producers seem to all agree on. One is Aurélien Lurquin, a champagne producer in Romery in Valée de la Marne. When I first

L’Arpège by Alain Passard- a story about terroir

This is not a story about natural champagne. There’s some natural champagne in the story, but the focus lies on l’Arpège, the starred restaurant by Alain Passard. L’Arpège is one of the best restaurants in the world, yet all dishes revolve around

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